How we rebuilt our VW Beetle engine | Redline Rebuilds Explained – S1E4

How we rebuilt our VW Beetle engine | Redline Rebuilds Explained – S1E4

(bouncing, thumping beat) – Hi, I’m Davin Reckow with Hagerty, and I’m the dirty hands
behind these videos. This is my cohort Ben, with the clean hands behind the camera. Today, we’re gonna go through our Volkswagen rebuild video, and we’re also very glad to
see that you liked it sofar, but here are some of
the inside track on it. – [Ben] We’re happy
that you guys got a kick out of our little joke. Yes, we do know that the
engine is in the back. (Davin laughs) – [Davin] But how do you
not start it off with that? – [Ben] Exactly. – [Davin] Yes, to address some
of the questions and concerns about this Beetle, it
is a kludge of parts, that’s for sure, relative
to the year that it is and different taillights,
and bumpers, etc. That doesn’t take away the
fun of driving this Beetle, and the enjoyment that
we both actually share. – [Ben] We did run the VIN
finally, which I don’t know why we didn’t do it before. It is a ’73, so thanks
to all the commenter, for pointing that out. What are we looking at here? – [Davin] Here’s the underneath,
getting the engine out. I found that a tyranny jack worked phenomenal for doing this because of the square pan at the bottom. You can see, it has decades
of leaks that have accumulated on both the transaxle, and
the bottom of the engine, but preserving it from
rusting, so that’s good, with the exception of surface
rust on the suspension. – [Ben] We had lots of people commenting that we were cheating
by doing it this way, that we should have had it up on blocks, and dragging it out with the dolly. – [Davin] I’ve bench pressed
plenty of transmissions, and I tell you what, if you
have access to the tools, I don’t find that cheating. But hey, to each their own. – So, we’ll get this guy out of here, and on we go to the rebuild. The general thing with these engines, is everybody says, “Oh,
it’s easy to drop ’em out. “They’re easy to rebuild. “They’re so simple, air cooled,” that sort of thing. What, I meant there’s
four bolts to undo there? – [Davin] Yeah, there’s
four bolts to hold it in, and then a splash pan is
all that’s really there. I think we had roughly
an hour, hour and a half, in doing it, and that’s
moving around for filming. So can you have it out
in 15, or a half hour? Absolutely. If you’ve done it before. This is the first time I ever done it, so at an hour and half, I’m fine with it. – [Ben] What are you
taking off here first? – [Davin] So, the first
thing I was getting out, I had left the exhaust on it. Actually taking it out in the car would have been a pain my mind, so I left the exhaust on it. The heat exchanger is the big piece that goes up underneath the valve. The valve cover right
there with the little loop. That is how you get heat
to the front of the car. It basically runs the
exhaust fan or a blower fan that blows through the tubes, and then up into the
rocker panels of the car. – [Ben] Off go the heat exchangers, and this thing had all sorts of shrouding. – Oh yeah, yeah, yeah. In fact, it’s interesting
because as your pulling it apart, you’re thinking, wow
this thing is air cooled. Well hell, air can’t
even to the cylinders, because of all the shrouding. But the shrouding is there for the routing off of that
fan blower going around. That washer. Look, that washer’s right there Ben. I’m not sure why we couldn’t find it when we couldn’t put it
back together, but hey. – They even had to manufacture
that little cone washer to put our pulley back on,
because it got lost in the– – [Davin] It got eaten
somewhere in the shop. – [Ben] Lost the mix somewhere So, Davin, you were taking
the carburetor off here, but there was a funny issue
that the carburetor had in regards to the throttle linkage. – Yeah, the way everything was set up, it was only getting quarter throttle. – Anyway, we shot a little clip, while we were taking
this apart to show you. So, here that is. – So basically, I think we
can double the horsepower by simply allowing the
carburetor to open all the way. So, it’s going about here on the pedal, but that’s why it opens. You can see that the
angle that this is all at, won’t allow it to go
to wide open throttle. Well first off, this is on the wrong side. It should be over here, I’m gonna say, based on where it comes out
through the fan side of things. Put the spring on this side, but it almost needs a extension on here, to where it’s out this way,
so it’s a straight pull. That would allow it to
go to wide open throttle. Right now it won’t. – [Ben] All right, so
carburetor comes off, plug up more bits. – [Davin] The coils out. Just kinda stripping things
down to get to the brass tax of the engine. – [Ben] So this is all interesting, just in terms of how it was
all kind of woven together, which thing to take off first. – [Davin] Yeah, there
definitely is a sequence to put things back together. So you have to pull the
one side intake runner to get the main intake
out, but, of course, you almost have to pull
the generator off as well. Yeah, it’s wound together, and, of course, that intake
system, it’s functional, but it’s not all the
efficient, I wouldn’t believe. – [Ben] Which is why a lot of people who hop up these things
do the dual webers. – The dual webers, yep. Now we’re pulling off that upper shrouding on top of the cylinder head. Pulling the pulley off,
the main crank pulley. – As you went here, like you said earlier, this was your firs time too. We kind of in this disassembly, it’s like, while we’re working over here,
that’s not gonna come off, we gotta do this on first. – [Davin] Exactly right. Yeah, there was a couple spots where you had to remove a
bolt to get to one shroud, but then you couldn’t
get to the second one. – [Ben] Then speaking of
bolts, out comes the torch. – Yeah, so with anything,
there’s always gonna be a bolt here or there that you gotta heat up. This one happened to be in the head. We heated that up and we’re
able to work on those cars. So, they a slot-headed
screw to begin with, so that doesn’t make it any more fun. At least it wasn’t a Phillips,
so that was a benefit. All right, so there’s the valve cover. It’s got like a little
piece of bailing there to hold it down. Here’s your shaft rocker assembly, which wasn’t really expected. I was expecting individual rockers, but a shaft rockers
definitely appreciate high rpm better than the individual. Then your push rods. Then you can see in this
shaft that the valve covers were leaking a little bit,
that’s why you’ve got that grime on top of the– – [Ben] Gadget. – [Davin] Intake, or right up the intake. Here’s the long and short studs. – Well, what was your first start? I mean, we’re coming off doing the Harley, which we pulled the cover off, and it was a mangled piston, so at least we didn’t have that. – Yeah, we’re happy to say
that we didn’t have that. There’s no holes in
the top of the pistons. A lot of crud on top for a running Motor, a decently running motor. You saw, I through out dowel capper just to see where the bore was at, because I personally was
impressed at how big the bore was. The bore size on this
was what, 94 millimeters? – [Ben] Which isn’t stock for this. These are bigger than– – [Davin] It is not stock, yeah. It’s got oversized jugs in it. So instead of being a 1600
cc, it’s a little over 19. – Gotcha. This one, I remember,
sitting here with this, and we couldn’t fight out
why each individual jug wouldn’t come off, and there ended up being a washer jammed in between those ridges in the slot, in the cooling vents, or the cooling ribs. – [Ben] So you had to pull
them off at the same time, it was very confusing, and
then we look in there like, oh yeah, there’s this little
washer jammed in there. All right, so the other side,
pretty much exactly the same. – Except one jug at a time. No washer holding them together. – [Ben] At this point, you’re thinking pretty straight forward. – [Davin] Yeah, should be. – [Ben] I found this interesting. This was a kitchen strainer. – [Davin] The kitchen
strainer for a filter, which there is an aftermarket
function you can get for to add a filter, a remote filter to it. – [Ben] Okay, now what are ya doing? – [Davin] This was the oil pump. Yes, that’s right because
it had the metal cover, and the oil pump, and
then the aluminum piece that’s kinda jammed in
there to some extent. There’s a special tool to utilize. We tried to– – [Ben] You mean it’s not
a hammer and screwdriver. – [Davin] Nah, probably not
the best place to start. We were gentle. There’s a difference
between gently prying, and getting nuts. – [Ben] There you got it off. – [Davin] Yep. We got it out of here. Pretty straight forward from that site. I mean, the reason they
had to do that is because putting it down on that end,
you have that parting line of the new case, so you’d
have no way ever be able to seal that to create a good pump, so that’s why that
separate piece is there. – [Ben] What are we doing here? – [Davin] Just pushing things down to get the pistons out. The pistons are a floating pin, so they’re not pressed into the rod, and it’s just a matter of
taking the C clip out of there, and then knocking the wrist pin out. – [Ben] Okay, so now
were splitting the case. – [Davin] Yeah, so these
are two case halves that come together, so you got
modified engine stand here, enough to hold one side
of the case and not both. The reason we’re prying this part two is there’s some locator dowels, that you’re trying to lift off of there. They’re not pressed, but
they’re definitely snug, and then of course, the sealant just has some general
block sealant between ’em. – [Ben] I remember this
is weird kinda goin around being like, did we miss a bolt, because it was a bit of a
struggle to get it separated. ‘Cause there isn’t a gasket but
you would put some type of– – [Davin] Yeah, just some sealer. – [Ben] Sealer in there. Now what are we looking at? – So here’s all the guts, so you got on the bottom
side of the screen here, with the big gear in it,
that’s your cam shaft. It’s two pieces, but
it’s not bolted together. The factory ones are riveted,
the big gear to the cam, and then your crank on the other half. You can see the lifters are
underneath the cam shaft here, and when we lifted the
one-half off, of course, lifters fell out. I remember we were like, how, wow, I wonder how we’re gonna
hold those in when we do it, but there is only one way to do it, and you have to have ’em in there. – [Ben] So out come the lifters. – [Davin] And there’s
your crank craft assembly. – [Ben] What were you
digging out of there? – That was the distributor, distributor gear shaft. So, you got your main distributor, piece, and then you go a short
drive shaft for it. Then pulling the bearings
out of the case shaft. – [Ben] Okay, we’re off then engine stand, but still a little more disassembly to go. – [Davin] Well, I had planned
on pulling and replacing the stud, so started taking those out. Used the torch once again to heat it up. I’m pretty confident
this is a magnesium case, which in some worlds magnesium heating up could be a problem, but it’s
only the powder that burns, not the chunks, the big chunks, so I wouldn’t really worried
about an uncontrollable fire in my shop. So we’re heating things
up, and making it stinky, and double knotting to get them out. – This is when we had our
first inkling of uh-oh. – There was I don’t know how many. I mean they have an insert anyway, where you can see here,
the insert is coming out. – Right here. – So, you got the insert
that’s into the aluminum block. You gotta have something
steel to hold onto for the heads, head bolts. Eventually there’s one
that was just JB welded in, so it didn’t unscrew, it just pulled out. I was like, “Oh boy, it
might be the very last one.” – [Ben] Yeah, you were scraping at it, you heated it. Yeah (chuckles). – Yeah, there it is, yeah there it is. – You can see there’s
no coil on it anywhere. – It’s a chunk of JB weld. – [Ben] At that point, were like “Ooh.” – [Davin] Yep. This had a lot of different issues as far as the spacers,
and how the hela coals that were in it. The jug wasn’t actually
sealed to the block, there was a gap. I mean, it had miraculously ran. I’ll put it that way. – [Ben] Yeah, it felt
like one of those things where the sludge that was
on it was the only reason it was still right. – So, here, I’m taking the
rods off the crankshaft, different than normal V8s
that we have been working on where the crank shaft would
be set into the block, mains caps torqued down,
and then you put the rods, and these are the opposite, if you will. It’s about like a snow
mobile from that standpoint. – [Ben] We have the whole assembly. – [Davin] Yeah, have the
whole assembly and put it in. Then you have main bearings that are diameters that slip on, pulling off right there. Then you have the brass deal is your gear for the distributor. Then your timing gear,
and then another bearing which those are all
pressed on to some extent, and then that bearing will just slip off. Likewise, on the bearings
on the other end. So, different than other
engines that I’ve worked on, where normally here in
the center where we’ve got a half shell, so you have
two halves of a bearing, normally you’d put one in the
block, and one in the cap. Then you’d tighten everything down. This you had diameter bearings of foot complete diameters, that would slip on the ends and then only the bearing in the center, which going through this found, and it makes complete sense
based on the two halves. So you would take the case,
put it assembled together, go in and mike everything out, which we did on this case, and determined what the OD of the bearing is, then, based on the crank,
then you’d find out what the idea of that bearing needs to be. Typical circumstance is the OD, is the OD, that normally doesn’t
change, but the ID changes relative to the crank being turned. This has actually two areas of adjustment to make parts work. Then there’s also, and you
can just see it in the bearing over here by the timing gear, there’s oil holes, and then
there’s a locator hole, or basically an anti-rotation hole. There’s a subsequent pin in the block that keeps them from spinning
relative to the block. Then to the far left there’s the shims that you use between the
flywheel and the crank, so you set your in play of
the crankshaft right to left, down the block. – So define and play what’s the problem with
not saying that, and– – Well if you have too much in play, basically, you’ll wipe
out your thrust bearing on the rear main right here. Typically there’d be a
flange on the crankshaft that would hold it moving right to left, or down the block if you will. These shims basically do that, and that gap was tight. Roughly, it’s like two or three
valve if I remember right. It was really tight. You use a dial indicator on it. That’s later on in the assembly, but this kind gives you a nice breakout of where it’s at. Here’s our progressive weber, basically to give it a
freshen while we’re here, clean it up, and make it
look a little nicer as well, and replace any nasty bits in any of this. – [Ben] Now we opened this
up, and it was full of crap. The poles were just filthy, rusty. I mean chunks of stuff. – [Davin] Chunks of stuff. I can’t believe, it’s one of
those that you open it up, and like, how did this run smooth at all. – [Ben] When we drove it 2500 miles, and it went 75 miles an hour at a quarter throttle (chuckles). Then off to Thirstily there we go. – [Davin] So at Thirstily
we polish the crank. Basically they’re taking
any ridges out of it, but you change the diameter slightly but still within the zone, if you will of not being turned, if
that makes any sense. – [Ben] Gotcha. – [Davin] Just a pure polish. – [Ben] So, we left it
up to Mark to pivot, and disassemble the heads for us. – [Davin] Yeah, we kinda
threw that on his plate. From what we can tell, as
well, based on the valve sizes, these heads are actually off a Porsche. – [Ben] If that’s true, it would
of come off of like a what, a 912, or a 356? – [Davin] Yeah. Whatever Flat 4 would be. Here’s he’s heating up the guys. They give them out, which you heat up the
aluminum a little bit, it swells enough, and they
tap off pretty easy then. – [Ben] We were originally thinking he was just gonna do some cleanup on it, but it ended up being… – [Davin] Yeah, the seats were shot. – [Ben] The guides I
think were the main issue. – The guides were really bad, yeah. When the guides are bad, it causes that valve to
do this inside the guides which slams the… It slams the seat. It doesn’t hit centered every time. – [Ben] We made him put
them back together for it. – [Davin] Yes. That’s one of the reasons
I didn’t pull those apart is my valve screen
compresser wouldn’t reach, without heavy modification. – [Ben] Now he’s pressing out. – [Davin] So, we replaced the
bushings on the little end, so that’s what he’s doing
here, is he’s pushing the bushings out, put fresh ones in. – [Ben] Yep, they’re getting pressure. Then what’s he doing here? – [Davin] So here he is. He’s cleaning up the big end of the rods, honing and resizing them. – [Ben] Making sure they’re circular. – [Davin] Yep. Taking any oval out of ’em. – [Ben] And sizing them
to what they need to be with whatever. – [Davin] Yes, and making
sure they’re to spec, as well, Not hadn’t been oversized. He’ll do the same thing with the small end as well,
which is what he’s doing here, so that brand new bushing, by the nature, it’s always a little
bit, call it undersized, or a little small, so he’s
setting it to the size, and then, of course when
you push things in and out, you can disturb the edges
of them, just a little bit, and that takes any of that out of it. – [Ben] You gotta rebuild kit, essentially to put all new bits in here. – Yep, yep, a complete rebuild kit, all the gaskets, the jets, and that type
of stuff, are reused but they’re cleaned out real well. You can see, I have a brass, the key here is there’s a brass brush, and you wanna use brass,
because it takes off the gunk, but not remove any material. You don’t wanna add any
scratches, you don’t have to. You can still see in
the bottom of that bowl, there’s still a little gunk left, and that does get cleaned out
before we reassemble that. – [Ben] It was just filled wsigth crap. – [Davin] Yeah, that
stuff was more staining than it is actual chunks floating around. So fresh gaskets, all
the screws goes back in, evenly tighten them around. You can see, I put a little of actually wheel bearing
grease on the threads. You’re going into aluminum,
steel and aluminum just makes sense. You could use anything from a lubricant. I’ve used wheel bearing grease obviously, Vaseline, anti-seize, anything, just to put something there, and then a clean up, and there it is. – [Ben] Now the fun stuff. – So here’s the crankshaft,
as we mentioned before. It has to go in the block
halves as an assembly, so you have to assemble everything here. – Now you’ve put it on the flywheel. – I put it on the flywheel simply to stand it up. You could do it laying on a table. Actually I found it was very handy, instead of it rolling around. – [Ben] Wait, was this the one? – [Davin] Yeah, there’s
something to note here. You’ll notice that I had a little, I’ll call it flung the
rod, after I put it on. The reason I did that is the first time we put the rod bearings on, it didn’t fling. – [Ben] It just clamped onto the… – [Davin] The crank was standard size, and we had 10 under bearings, so there was a mass of interference, right about seven thousands. Yes, for those of you watching, no initially, I did not check. I would of caught that if I
would have put one bearing in and miked out the crank. The second time I miked the
crank, and miked the bearings. I think that’s the first
time I haven’t done that. – [Ben] I think that was just sort of like we assumed that the
right part got ordered. – [Davin] Yep we did. – [Ben] And, they didn’t, so we’ve got the right pieces. – [Davin] Which that’s a cardinal sin, because you always make ’em,
regardless of the right one, blah, blah, blah. – [Ben] ‘Cause they might
send you the wrong one. – [Davin] It bit me right there. – [Ben] They might accidentally send one of the wrong ones, and
three of the right ones. – When we talked in our description, that just because everyone says, “Ah, these are the easiest things ever.” They’re the easiest things
ever when it goes right. When it goes wrong, they’re
just as crappy as anything else. – [Ben] Same thing said
for Chevy small block. – [Davin] Absolutely, right. – [Ben] Or really any engine, but the ones that have the common sort of, “Oh, they’re so easy, yeah.” Yeah they’re easy until they aren’t. – Right. Everybody on the couches aren’t doing ’em, ’cause they’re not that easy. They’re not a bag of chips. This is after we went through the, “Oh, your crank case is no good. We’re like, “Oh no.” – [Ben] So, speaking of the crank case. – [Davin] Here it is. – [Ben] Here’s our fancy new one. – [Davin] This is a
brand new MP crankcase, aluminum built, way
heavier than the stock one, which bit us on a couple
spots, but only from a clearance standpoint, but
it’s a lot beefier case. It comes line honed. It’s all ready to assemble. I did have to clean it. I rinsed things out and
got some bits out of, from shipping and that. It’s got beautiful steel inserts in there, that are not JB Welded into this case, so a couple cool things like that. Actually, in one of the spots,
you could see right where the hold down clamp, it looks
like I’ve already hit that. See the hold down clamp there, and the– – Right here? – Right here. That was one area that had the clearance with diagrander, because the case was beefier right there. There were plenty of meat to work with, just the clamp I had,
I had to clearance it so it sat down Flush. Otherwise it was kicking up. – [Ben] We did, as we come
into this new case here. The reason we did get the new case wasn’t just because of
those JB Weld things to be pulled out of there, we took it to the shop to have it checked, to see if we could reuse it, and they basically told us no. We got a quick clip of
Dave explaining that, so here it is. – So after we carefully taken apart the engine block and
separated everything out, got our stuff apart. We started doing the inspections. A couple of critical areas in here are the journal for your crankshaft, and the journal for your camshaft. These can be honed, align
honed after they’re assembled, both journals. Then bearings purchased accordingly. Of course, bearings are only
offered in certain sizes, and what we found on our
inspection was these journals have already been taken to their max, plus you’ll see that
there’s been some damage to the journals, specifically the pin
that holds the bearing from rotating, and this one has been completely been wiped out. If you remember, we had to
use a torch in a couple areas to get studs out. We had some pretty ugly
inserts that have already been put in here, and been
replaced, and pretty nasty. So whatta you do when you
have problems with a block? In this case, you do this right here, a brand new one, all beautiful, shiny, perfectly machined, and
ready to be assembled. The other case was ugly. – Yeah, it was. – [Davin] It’s seen all of its life. So here were’ putting in the head studs. You see I’m wiping off the excess, but using some aviation
sealer to hold those in. High Tack is another version of that. The idea is it seals them for oil leakage, and locks ’em in place. – [Ben] Now you’re getting
ready to drop the crank in, and the cam shaft. – Yep, rods are on. You see now the camshaft. That’s a brand new camshaft. Again, there was nothing
wrong with the stock camshaft that was in it, other than it
didn’t compliment the bore, so the bigger bore size, you
might as well take advantage of a little more lift on the camshaft, in different durations,
so it’ll fuel it better. It has an aluminum bolt on, timing gear, and you can see brand new lifters. There are the brand new main bearings, and camshaft bearings, just
using a little assembly lube, so it’s on there when
everything goes back together. Put the timing gear back in. I’m sorry, the timing gear
and the distributor gear. So there goes the lifters into that half, which is easy, because
they’re on the downside, so they’re gonna stay
where they need to be at, set the crankshaft in,
obviously making sure the rods go through
the hole in the bottom, making sure that those
dowel pins are lined up for the main bearing so they don’t spin. Putting in the last,
or the center bearing, which I got it lubed up, but
you can see it’s not there. That half goes into the other case half, lock tightening in the
bolts for the camshaft, torque ’em down, again lubing up the cam lobes for initial fire up. Here is the lifters for the other half. Now, I mentioned earlier
that we were concerned how we’re gonna hold them in there. Actually what happened was really nice, is they typically don’t
ride all the way in. They ride, I don’t know
a hundred thousands up, but when you push them in, just
that hundred thousands more, there’s just enough bite, just enough resistance in the case, that they hold them so when
you flip ’em upside down they stay there, and then you can just
push them down into place. – [Ben] Okay, so on goes… – [Davin] So here’s the case half sealant, so wiped everything down. Everything is clean. There’s no burs, all that type of stuff, and just putting a real thin layer on all the surface that come together. Again, there’s some aliment
pins and everything. You can see that case
half syncing together. In goes the oil filter strainer – From the back your getting
the pistons ready, go. – We ordered pistons, and didn’t think anything about the price, because it was reasonable
for four pistons. When we got the pistons,
the pistons had the rings on them already. Of course, it came with wrist pins, but it also came with new jugs. It was like, “Wow, that
was dirt cheap for pistons and jugs. It was under $400, and I was like, “Wow, that’s crazy.” – So, we didn’t need to replace the jugs. – No the jugs didn’t need to be replaced, but at that point, we got free machining by buying a brand new
jugs, so it just made sense to use ’em. So, here’s the only trick if you will, and you can see it in the background. We put the piston into the jug with the ring compressor first. Then slip it down over, push the wrist pin through, so through the piston into the rod, then of course across the other side. One clip is already in the piston, and then here I’m just
putting the last clip in, that holds that wrist pin from coming out. – [Ben] There goes the pin. Now the pin’s in, and there’s the clip. – What you were doing
in the background there was you were adding a little bead of, so that’s a little separate. Just before I put the
pistons into the jug, speaking with a Volkswagen officinado, he recommended to take
instead of using any of shims and all of that, because I had
already set my head height, on that top end where my hand’s at. We had machined those. But, any rate, to get
the right compression, so then when I set that
in there, I put a bead of high temperature silicone,
the orange alter seal. – Around here, right. – Yep, right at the corner if you will, the cylinder jug to the fins, – [Davin] The ray where it meets here. – [Ben] Right where it meets there, yep. That is to seal that up right there, because you’re really only sealing… You’re sealing some crank pressure, but for the most part. It’s not a normal head
gasket, or thought process of a head gasket, it is
just sealing the oil. So, by doing that, that
puts enough sealant there, without getting ugly, and
you might be able to see it when it pushes in. I put it just in the corer. I remember a couple spots
where you could see it. There you go. So, you can just see the
orange that pushed dowel. – [Ben] Now what are these going on here? – [Davin] These are very
fancy push rod tubes. – [Ben] I thought it was cool
when they tie mikes here, as he tightened it down, you can see those little areas compress. There it goes. – [Davin] Yep. Now this is the first set of
cylinders we’ve put on, ever. This is the first time
I have ever done this. For those that know, we’ll see that I did
not put in the shroud. There is absolutely no
way to put the shroud in after you put head on in the tubes. A couple commenters caught that. – A couple commenters caught it, and they were 100% right. On the second set, I caught it when we went to do the
second set of cylinders, I put it on the second set, and I had to come back
and pull the head off, basically redo this sequence. I didn’t obviously pull the cylinders off, and then slid that in there. So, in the car, it is there. Something else I want to note too that we powder coated the valve covers. Pretty much anything that matte black, has been powder coated. Reason for that is it holds up way better than paint. Now, I don’t believe this engine’s gonna get over 400 degrees, and have any issue with the
plastic of the powder coating, so if it does, then we probably
got different problems. – [Davin] Yeah, if the
the valve covers are getting up to 400 degrees, then we definitely have some issues. So same thing on the other side. – [Ben] You can see that red goop again. There it is. – [Davin] Look at that, there’s the shield That’s on the other side. – [Davin] I shouldn’t say it’s a shield, it is part of the cooling system. – [Ben] When it comes
down to drive it across the bottom side of that. – [Davin] So, there’s a
rocker assembly on there. You can see, I set the
valve lash right in there. There’s the fuel gauge
setting the valve lash. We didn’t necessarily
show the wrench on there rotating the crank shaft. I have to set everything correctly. – [Ben] All the bit so
you’d only catch in a frame. – [Davin] Yes. – I guess, I would say a lot
of the comments that we get on these in terms of how we did these, is usually in regards
to stuff that we did, but because of the nature of the videos. You’re just not gonna see, or
they’re just mundane enough that it’s like, “Well
there’s no point in shooting. ♪ Dun, dun, dun ♪ – Yes, you gotta have the book out. Only because the first
time it has a half load type of function, or an off center mark, and it was just a question for me of where does everything need to line up. Depending on the year that we don’t know, and depending to this,
that and the other thing, there’s about four different positions of where it could be at,
and at the end of the day, I need to make a judgment
call of what it needed to be. So here we’re getting that in there, and what the flashlight’s
doing in there is “I’m looking and making sure I’m getting everything lined up, because there’s a shaft, a
spring, and then the distributor has to line up to everything
as you go in there. Then you have the nice hold
down clamp for the distributor. Oil pump goes back in. – [Ben] What kind of goop are you using? A little bit of that. Again, that aviation, sealer,
gasket make, type of stuff. Then gears go back in, and
filled it with lithium grease. and the idea there is it picks up faster as far as the pump is concerned. – [Ben] Meaning the pump
turns into a pump faster. It’s got more suction
to get the ore moving. – [Davin] Exactly. We opted to reuse the kind
of an ugly oil cooler. The adapter and everything is cleaned up, and I flushed out the
oil cooler really well, and was happy with that. – [Ben] I think we had a comment, or somebody sent us an email, that said that their company
remakes or refurbishes– – [Davin] Which I have now on the list, so that’ll happen next time. A fuel pump went in here to the right, and then the stand for
generator is what’s on the farthest right. – [Ben] Also the oil fill tube too. – [Davin] Yes, and the oil fill is part of all that assembly there. There you can see it really well. – [Ben] Yeah that oil
cooler is kinda heinous, isn’t it. – [Davin] Yeah it is. But it works – That’s right. It goes away here in a little bit. End up with pretty much
all brand new shrouding, just because the other one had some tabs that were beat off, broke
up, and it wasn’t worth repairing them for $30. – [Ben] These are all… Again, they were brand new. I bead blast them, and
had them power coated, so they’ll hold up a little better. The paint that was on ’em was pretty thin. Crank pulley back on. I mean it’s starting to look
good again here, if you will. – But now you can see,
we have both of those. – Yes, there we go, proof, right there. So there’s one there, and one there. We redeemed ourselves there
before it went in the car. These are what we were just talking about, is this bottom heat duct shrouding for the cooling in the bit. They were flat, pretty much, in a vendor put in position. They weren’t ridiculous, but it took a little effort to get there. – Now we’re nearing the end here. – Nearing the end, so now I’m putting the big heat exchanger back on. That actually has a high
temperature paint put on them, that’s gold when you spray it on. Then you bake it to 550 degrees, and it turns that gray, and
that is the best coating I’ve ever found for exhaust. – [Davin] So here we’re putting the fan all back together again, and everything was stripped and shot. – Now this was a fun process. This was a fun process
because it was not happy. For whatever reason that shroud wound up, or the fan itself wanted
to rub on the shroud. There was a lot of shimmying and cussing. So again, if you look right
there by the distributor in my hand, there is a rod end and that little linkage piece. That’s the key to getting the– – Look at this guy, which the old intake
manifold did not have. – The old intake manifold
did not have that, so what was happening
is as the cable came out of the fan shroud, it was
coming up at a 45 degree angle to the carburetor, and pulling down, but it has to go past
the six o’clock position to go to full throttle. This rectified that. You’ll see it here again when
we get the carburetor on, but that little cast in bond, was the key to all this. We reused the fuel pump. It was fine. Obviously, the distributor, so those two pieces show
a little wear there, and the generator is good. Freshly reloaded carburetor on there, a long search for the washer to go here, but fabricated all the nice one. It looks good. – [Ben] It looks good we painted it. So last step now is to get the exhaust on. I don’t remember what that brand was. Somebody asked, and I’ll have to get it. – I got it through Apple Tree in Michigan. – [Davin] All right. – [Ben] So here’s running the ignition wires over
to the correct area, and figuring out how we
wanted to lay the fuel line, based on for all intents and purposes, whoever was not designed
to go on this engine. It’s on backwards, if you will. Because your choke adjustment, and your fuel intake is on the back side, against that shroud, and
it is a pain in the monkey to do it, especially to adjustment it. This is where it’s handy that it’s light, – And handy that there’s
a video guy there. – Although I want to look at the look on that video guy’s
facing going, “Holy cow. “This is the heaviest
camera I’ve ever lifted.” (Davin laughs) Now here, this is were
I was talking about. We’ve set me in play,
so there’s the gauge. I got the flywheel on. I’ve got it torqued out. Now I don’t have it torqued
down to crazy number that needs to be yet. I’ve just taken up the slack. – [Ben] Oh, is that me
trying to murder you there? – [Davin] It looks like
Ben’s trying to take me out. – [Ben] I was bringing you a hammer. – [Davin] You were bringing me the hammer, because I use an aluminum plate
to put the rear main seal in after I had checked and
knew what kind of shims I needed in there to get
that endpoint correct. I didn’t happen to have the
right clutch alignment tool, so I had to turn one on the lathe. I didn’t worry about any spines, because I just used the diameter. Diameter, diameter’s the same thing. – [Ben] That’s why you’re special, because if we don’t have a part, you just make it. – [Davin] Just make it. That’s right. – [Ben] There’s that, – [Davin] That is all stainless. It functions fully like
the original stuff does, but I’ll tell you what,
the flow is a lot nicer, and it sounds good. – [Ben] I love the fact that
this engine sitting there. You could just start it up
sitting there if you wanted to. – [Davin] Oh, absolutely. Yeah, absolutely. – [Ben] There’s no radiator to hook up. – [Davin] No nothing. – [Ben] It’s all right there. – [Davin] Yeah, it’s all there. – [Ben] I mean you just
basically need fuel, and– – [Davin] Put the
battery into the spin it. Yeah ’cause the starter
bolts to the transmission side of it, but– – [Ben] Now we’re back
on the training jack. This right here is where two more inches would have been fantastic, and it has nothing to do
with the other exhaust, ’cause it was equally as a bear
to get that little piece out right there. – [Davin] What the time doesn’t show, is us spending like a half an hour finagling things to get it lined up. – [Ben] Instead it’s like, “Oh look, we did this in five minutes. We’re pretty much wrapping things up here. – [Davin] Yep, everything’s wrapped up. Timing set, we broke the engine in right, between that shot. – But you know, it’s Hollywood. We gotta make a play. You guys don’t wat to sit there for 20 minute watching us break it in. – [Davin] That’s not real impressive. I don’t think either. – [Ben] So it’s off you go. – [Davin] Off we roll. (VW engine purs) Glad you’re still watching. We’ve got more things to come. As you noticed, or may not have noticed, in the shop there’s some
where’s Waldos in there, a couple of the projects, and a couple of things
up our sleeves as well. Not in that shop. – Yep we have a couple
maybe out of the ordinary for what you’ve seen so
far, for the red light and rebuilds, but leave comments. If you have any more
questions about this video, or if you have any
suggestions for what engines we should be working on. I know we’ve gotten comments
about doing a Chevy big block, a Ford 289, straight six, straight 8. Some people ask for a Porsche engine. I mean, isn’t that the same thing as what we just did. – Pretty close. – It’s just two more cylinders. Thanks for watching. We’ll see you next time. – [Davin] See ya. (engine roars)

100 thoughts on “How we rebuilt our VW Beetle engine | Redline Rebuilds Explained – S1E4

  1. im looking and im seeing twin port heads on the motor and yet you still went with a crap twin choke, why not use the flow of the heads by using twin 40s/45s, im lost…. then again im english

  2. I knew/Know nothing about air cooled engines. Now I know almost as much as I did when I started. This is why I worked on Benz for 20 years.

  3. I may be wrong but it didn't look as if oil slinger was installed when you were setting the crank, did you guy's check that?

  4. Back in the day…there were pit crew contests in removing air cooled VW engines….the record time was like 45 seconds to remove an engine

  5. 35 years ago I worked at an import garage that specialized in Air-cooled VW repair. We would do the valve jobs in house. But it was more economical to replace the crankcase as a factory assembled assembly. Engine were available in every degree of completion. Back then you could buy a factory built 40HP engine for about $800. You could also buy almost any config of a crate VW AC engine from 40HP to about 200+hp twin turbo. For about $1200-1300 you could buy a really nice 100-120hp crate engine

  6. Damn thing is made out of mash potatoes . . . stripped threads galore ! Love the lightness of aluminium , just not it's testicular fortitude to heat and continuous wrenching.

  7. Just started watching a few of your tear downs and rebuilds, Love them. How about a tear down and rebuild of the Dodge slant 6? Keep up the good work.

  8. Pistons must face the correct way. I didn't see any mention of that. Push rod tubes must be lengthened if not new. Correct flywheel torque is extremely important. The extra four pins in the crank indicates that it had a problem with the torquing before. This is not to criticize, merely for someone needing correct info.

  9. GREAT VIDDY! BTW~ The VW engine is like a musical instrument, if it is dialed in and tuned right, she sings! & VWs are not air cooled, like a motorcycle, they are fan cooled, the fan is always blowing so the cylinders can stay cool even when idling at an intersection. For this reason the shrouding and engine compartment seal that it fits into are CRITICAL to engine cooling! Gaps in the tin can cause exhaust heat to flow up into the engine compartment, where the fan recirculates it over and over until it is blow-torch hot, hence the danger of super intense magnesium engine fire.
    SO: If your dipstick is too hot to hold when you check your oil, check your shrouding, fan belt tension and fan for obstructions, STAT. Now I want another VW hahahah.

  10. I have read all of the comments and it a
    pears I am the only one to notice that you guys did not install the oil slinger on the cam side of the crank shaft. There is one word for that LEAKER!!!!

  11. Great video, 2 things / suggestions When your there and doing it, just yank out the dual barrel carb (there are always issues with them, ie not enough manifold heat, ect) and the other thing get rid of the generator and do an alternator conversion next time. 🙂 Great video!

  12. I hate to bust any bubble, but look at the video at 26:2, the little raised bump half way on the rods should point up when in the block. The image indicates 2 are up and 2 are down.

  13. I notice the rod nubs weren't going the right way too. I built an engine more than 40 years ago and made the same mistake. The engine lasted a month. Never made that mistake again.

  14. Well, it's almost February in 2019 and I see from the comments that you guys know nothing about fine/precision foreign engines and that the engine is either burned up, blown up, or is otherwise by now just a pile of junk somewhere even worse than you started with. So, how about an update, eh?

  15. You forgot the thermostat. I'm not joking. It goes on the right side under the pushrod tubes. It has a bracket. Also has a rod that goes to the fan shroud. This will self destruct if it isn't in.

  16. The factory service manual is essential for any VW mechanic… SO worth the money. Avoid crappy Haynes manual. Get the Bentley Manual (expensive but worth it)… will be the best money you spend on your VW if you do your own work! While you're at it it get the Muir keep your Volkswagen alive book because it's so awesome!

  17. Id really like to see a video on you guys redoing an early 90's ford 4.0. I have one in my ranger that I'm thinking of rebuilding since it has 250k.

  18. Would you recommend for somebody to do this alone in his driveway, without any lift or transmission jack? I need to change the block of my 71 and can`t really afford buying a whole new engine to swap in.

  19. Great video, really enjoyed it. I've been playing with vw for over a decade can tell, and im planing on a comeback after 12 years been away. You didn't tell what cc it was and what carb is on it, cam shaft etc. Please let me know.

  20. As said below heads are vw 041 castings. These where fitted to later 1600 type 1 (beetle) engines. Earlier 041 heads suffered from cracking between the valves this was caused primarily by overheating because of the smaller exhaust valve (early 041 had a 39mm inlet and 33mm exhaust valve).
    Later 041 heads increased the thickness of the head casting (needing longer 19mm spark plugs) Also the valve sizes were increased (40mm inlet and 35mm exhaust).
    Most of this resizing and modifying was due to emissions regulations but can lead to better performance in tuned engines.

  21. i like vid now repeat again and again tear down build when you get to a hundred find me i have beetle ragtop you will be ready no disrespect just sayin and i been waiting 20 years for right mechaniker this is first vw vid i have ever seen taught me what i already knew i want some guy with grey hair cheers

  22. This build should have used a different crank. The case getting ruined it's NOT a counterweighted crank! It was 8 dowl'ed crank, but not a counterweighted crank which is needed for RPM.

  23. Nice video. I rebuilt a 1964 VW engine in 1974 in my parents garage without all the cool engine stands and such that you had. Drove it out to Oklahoma in 1976 and sold it in 1978. Worst thing that I ever did, wish that I had it back. Oh well….

  24. While I have no idea what you were doing, watching you made me want to do something to my own 1978 VW Cabriolet. Thank you.

  25. Manx is right those are not Porsche heads, they're VW.
    Porsche heads from a 356 lets say, have the rockers arranged in a funky asymmetrical pattern, not parallel like VWs.

  26. I love watching Davids video's omg he is freaking awsome, So when I was 15 I sold my 3 Wheeler(185S) …My 250 Eciter Yamaha street bike… saved my money to build me a 350 SB. I did all that and I came up with 3000.00, this was 1996 Guys!!! Purchased a used 1974 350-4 bolt main engine from my uncle Mark…well used but a good engine . At 15 I built it!!! My mom was so proud…she gave me the long time family car now retired 1968 Chevelle 2-door SS and said… "son theres you a car to put that beautiful engine in"…God love my MOM.
    So that was my first experience of engine building, since then……..I NEVER STOPPED.
    David you are simply a bad ass at it, I love the way you explain it and I love the way you build them!!!
    Shayne Dumas
    Little Rock, Arkansas

  27. On the Dist. drive gear etc use a little heat never beat on them. In case you all forgot all vw bugs were designed by Mr. Porsche for Hittler. so in a way the heads are Porsche.

  28. On the lifters you use a set of spring clips to hold them all the parts suppliers have them for a few bucks.

  29. You guys are young. Don’t listen to the others who tell you to pull engine the hard way. I got to be quite fast at pulling the motor, but now I paid for it with serious back surgery. Do it the smart way, like you’re doing!😊

  30. I find it hilarious your reaction to a VW motor. Typical American perspective. JRTFM before you start. Screwdrivers prying on the parting line?? Fail.

  31. One more thing guys. NO plastic fuel filter on the PRESSURE side of the pump! You're just asking to burn your bug to the ground doing that.

  32. A plastic petrol filter in the engine bay? Really?
    No oil flinger fitted on the crankshaft.
    Missed out the under-cylinder tin, but it magically appeared later.
    Porsche heads? Not like any I have ever seen; what part number are they?
    Also, beware aftermarket case quality – I have seen several out of tolerance and with porosity.
    Not impressed one little bit guys – this really is all beginners' stuff.
    Overall, a great video… in showing how NOT to do it…

  33. Man thanks so much for the detailed video u guys did great! Hope to see alot more VW videos in the future. Vws are making a come back and I love it!

  34. Great job!!! I hope to see from you a rebuild video from Mercedes or BMW engine. Greatings from Germany!!

  35. Just curious when you talked about a Ford straight six are you talking about a 300 truck motor or a barra

  36. german here. I allways listen to the storys of guys putting porsche engines in these cars. really amazing to watch it happen and not just talking

  37. Great job, the original case of engine was made in Brazil, and the super case of EMPI also a Brazilian case, the almost heads are Brazilian too, I think by parts from there.

  38. Great post, guys! I owned 3 VW's in my youth. First, my brother and I spent $300 on a 1962 fade green Bug in 1975, then I bought for $900 in 1979 a canary yellow, fuel injected Square Back Wagon, absolutely loved it! Then, when I graduated from college, I bought a 1972 canary yellow Bug for $2000 dollars, drove it for a couple of years, and sold it for the same price. BTW A rebuild on one of those Square Back, fuel injected engines would make for an interesting job. Thanks again!

  39. I really like that you guys do a multitude of different engines, rather than the same tired old thing of big blocks. Don't get me wrong, I lol I've all rebuilds, but oddball motors are fun. I'd like to see a 287 rebuild

  40. To be fair it's a car that when new had 60 horsepower that had a hotrod engine, near the end of it's life cycle probably made 85 horsepower. Fun cars.


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